Removing suspension parts

Yeah! I have finally got the car up on jackstands and started to work on the suspension.
<div>The plan:
- Change all suspension bushings including swaybar endlink bushings
- Change springs and dampers (KYB AGX and FM springs)
- Change to MS diff- and motor mounts</div><div></div><div><div>This garage jack came in handy. I can’t belive I didn’t invest in one before now.</div><div> </div></div><div>The bushings doesn’t look that bad. I won’t know for sure before they are out of the suspension arms. Hopefully the new ones will make the rear end tighter as I have quite a lot of wheel hop when the rear end lets loose in lower gears.</div>The rear brakrotors were totally worn out. I had some problems earlier with the left caliber sticking and it shows.
I’m not too happy about the greenstuff pads either as two of the pads lost parts of the brakingmaterial when i knocked the caliper of the disc.
This is how a winter driven 96 mod MX-5 rear suspension looks like:
<div></div><div>My first problem. The axels was stuck ine the wheel hub.</div><div>“Luckily” I had bought this axle puller from Biltema in case this should be a problem:</div><div></div><div>30 seconds later the sh** Biltema crap axle puller disnintegrates into this: </div><div> </div><div>This is why:</div><div>
The bolts was torn off and badly deformed. What is the point of using such crappy bolts on an axel puller ??
I wasn’t even tightening it that hard.
What’s even more strange is that I replaced the bolts with cheapo Biltema bolts that hold up without no signs of fatigue.</div><div>Removing the suspension arms was straight forward (but hard work). Penetrating oil can do woners to rusty bolts. </div>


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