New engine - L3-VDT
After ending 2025 with a BANG! a new engine had to be sourced for 2026. To NOT immediately add another entry in my MZR carnage history I did what I should have done years ago when adding boost: L3-VDT short block from the Mazdaspeed 3 turbo 2.3l:
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Engine Code | L3-VDT (MZR 2.3L DISI Turbo) |
| Displacement | 2,261 cc (2.3L) |
| Configuration | Inline-4, DOHC 16-valve |
| Bore | 87.5 mm (3.445 in) |
| Stroke | 94.0 mm (3.701 in) |
| Compression Ratio | 9.5:1 |
| Power (bhp) | 263 hp @ 5,500 rpm (196 kW) |
| Torque (Nm) | 380 Nm @ 3,000 rpm |
| Boost Pressure | ~12-14 psi (estimated) |
| Turbocharger | Warner-Hitachi K04 twin-scroll |
| Fuel System | Direct Injection Spark Ignition (DISI) |
| Block Material | Aluminum with cast-iron sleeves |
| Timing Drive | Chain |
| Redline | ~6,500 rpm |
| Oil Capacity | 5.7 liters |
| Recommended Oil | 5W-30 |
| Production Years | 2005-2013 |
| Vehicle | Mazda6 MPS / Mazdaspeed6, Mazda3 MPS / Mazdaspeed3, Mazda CX-7, Mazda MPV (JDM) |
In short: This block is built for boost from the factory:
- Forged(?) pistons with proper ring lands
- Stronger (floating) piston pin.
- Beefy rods
- Oil feed and return in the block
I will reuse the L5 head,LF-VE cams,chain/sprockets, MX5 pan, motor mounts etc.
The engine was bought from a local Mazda dealer here in Norway, but was shipped from Belgium. Price was the same as a LF or L5 short block ~ 28K NOK / 3K USD.
Is it as good as a fully built MZR with forged rods/pistons/+++ ? Maybe. It can hold 263/380 hp/nm forever, so 300 whp and 7K which is my goal should be no problem.
I were expecting the pistons to have some sort of asymmetric dish for the DI injection, but they do look pretty conventional.
I’m not sure about what the CR will end up being with the L5 head, but based on the timing numbers in the 4-5K range it might be more than 9.5:1
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The block came with the rear crank seal. I had to do some miner grinding above the sticker(Dated 2018) for the 8HP45 adapter plate to fit flush.
Block height is the same as the L5, so L5, valve gear/chain/cover needs to be used.
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It comes with larger oil squirters than the L5. Also a balancer which was removed/plugged.
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As mentioned, the block is not the same casting as the other L engines. L5 to the left.
The middle markings is some additional webbing and bolt hole. I believe it’s a turbo support of sorts. This made it a bit harder to clock the 7163 as the compressor housing has less room.
The oil return is especially handy as there hardly any material for tapping the oil return on the LF/LF engines without it leaking.
See my install notes here.
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Some more pics for the oil feed and return
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New bolts, gaskets and some bespoke oil feed hw from Speeding.com
NB! part numbers in pic for the banjo hw is wrong. The correct banjo thread is 7/16-20 aka AN4 thread , NOT a M12-1.25 which fits, but will leak like your personal data on the internet…
Also use a banjo with a 90-bend from the block. The oil return is 38mm flange on both ends.
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Due to a LOT of work to get the 8HP swap to work + some ignition gremlins I only got it to sing at 7K and 0.8 bar now at the very end of the season.
It’s so good to have a engine again that pulls all the way to 7K without falling on it’s face like L5.
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